5^th July

As late riser as I’m, I got up at around 7.30 am only to find that the Rain God has not been so kind. There have been heavy downpour since last night and it still is continuing. I’m not able to make out if I should proceed to Dree Ground or not or if it, at all would be possible to take any photos in such inclement weather (my camera is not water proof….gee.. ).

Time 9.25 am: Despite the heavy rain I finally make up my mind to go to Dree Ground at Old Ziro, to be part of the celebration, if not capturing the event. And with me, I tag my camera along; still unsure if I would be able to put it to use. I think of capturing whatever fancies me at the celebration ground if Rain God permits.

Time 9.45 am: I reach Dree Ground feeling bit annoyed with myself for not making it to ground on time prior to arrival of Chief Guests. But, where are the Chief Guest and Guest of Honor? They have not arrived yet.Meanwhile, the overcast subsides and the Rain God shy away paving way for bright sunshine, to the much relief of people gathered in the ground for celebration. It’s been an hour now waiting for the Chief Guest and Guest of Honor to arrive.

Time 10.45 am: Finally, Chief Guest Nido Pavitra, Hon’ble MLA Raga and Guest of Honor Ms. Bandhana Deori, IRS, Secretary Tourism & UD, Government of Arunachal Pradesh arrives along with the CDFC Chairman. What took them so long to reach the venue when they were putting up at Ziro since the previous day? Oh! I should have known what schedule means to the politicians.

Guest, Guest of Honor and CDFC Chairman pose with Dree ‘Nyibu’

Camera Crew of Local Cable Network covering the celebration

Team Leader..Eh! A Japanese Tourist matching steps with Daminda Team

Turn of the Apatanis’-known for their hospitality to felicitate the Japanese friends who so enthusiastically took part in the celebration

With foreign tourists flocking Ziro to withness the celebration, I am thinking is it the dawn of cultural tourism.

Eiffel Tower for sale, any takers?

Pinta at Dree Altar

Who’s the Subject?

Time around 2.30 pm: ‘Nikung Dapo’, Apatani Dictionary by Habung Donyi (New Edition) and ‘Ditung Potung’ of Hija released.

6^th July

A policeman and a lottery ticket holder inspecting the tambola used for draw

Time 5.30 pm: Our ticket numbers are not in the list of numbers drawn and we are heading back to Hapoli a little disappointed with our lucks

My Experience of Myoko

Before this Myoko, I was of the opinion, like any other neo-Apatani, that the Myoko celebration is a sheer waste of money and time where ’O’-the local rice beer flowed like water and meat consumed without a limit. However, after having observed the celebration and rituals very closely and being part of the celebration this Myoko, my perception and outlook towards Myoko has totally been transformed. Although, still I feel that there is this huge involvement of money (I had to shell out around 30k for the celebration) and time; I do know now that Myoko is a celebration where you renew your relationships, share camaraderie and pay homage to the ancestors and nature who has given you life and means of sustenance. In fact, to put in other words, Myoko is a celebration which encompasses every fabric of the Apatani society. Well, here I must add that the above outlook on Myoko is mine alone and in no way am I trying to counter those who feels that Myoko is a ‘foolishness’-may be from their point of view they are right.

The other thing that attracted my attention this Myoko was the equal numbers of flags with symbol of ‘Sun’ fluttering along with the ‘Babo’s’. It made me wonder, if it is the reflection of people turning towards ‘Donyi-Poloism’ or Hinduism?

[Babo v/s Flag]

How Myoko Celebration came into being? – A bit of Mythology

As one of the mythology suggests-Abotani, the father of the mankind, by virtue of blessings from the ’supreme power’ had become so powerful that he became menace to everyone right from his brothers Kirii and Kilo to his father-in-law Siiki to other living beings and this growth in power even threatened the existence of ’supreme power’. Lest Abotani eliminated him, the supreme power conspired to eliminate Abotani. So, the supreme power tricked him into climbing a log and suspended him in the air over the log to die.

‘Dolyang Chanyang’-the first female Nyibu (priest) of Apatani and sister of Abotani couldn’t see her brother suspended to die, requested the supreme power to spare him. After lots of persuasion, the supreme power finally agreed to spare Abotani’s life on the condition that some power given to him, by virtue of which Abotani had become so powerful, be taken back. The mythology suggests that Abotani had three eyes and spikes at his ankle. By virtue of the third eye Abotani could foresee the future and the spikes at his ankle made him very powerful. As the condition for sparing Abotani’s life, the supreme power took back the third eye and the spikes rendering Abotani less powerful. It is said that since then, on the advice of Dolyang Chanyang, Abotani started observing Myoko in order to appease the supreme power.

The other mythology suggests that Abotani, as intelligent and cunning as he was, always out witted his father-in-law Siiki and tried to reign supremacy over his father-in-law, his brothers Kiiri and Kilo, other creatures etc. Tired of Abotani’s supremacy, they conspired to eliminate Abotani of which Dolyang Chanyang came to know about. She suggested Abotani to observe Myoko as a reconciliatory measure and to invite Siiki for the celebration, which being father-in-law, Siiki would not be able to turn down. Since then, it is said that Myoko is being observed by the Apatani’s.

Myoko-A Photo Feature

Prior to the advent of calendars’, people knew it’s time for Myoko celebration when the takung (peach) starts flowering.

[Takung Apu]

Myoko begins 20^th of March every year with group of villages taking their turn to observe it and it is declared open with a ritual called Sama Piniing where wooden logs equaling the number of households in a clan are piled up at the residence of yugyang ato i.e., the owner of yugyang-a sacred place.

These logs are used at the ceremonial end of Myoko to roast rice [with or without husk] in a closing ritual called Empii Koniin.

After Sama Piniin ritual, for 3 days guests from non-performing villages are invited for a bout of rice beer and food. At the end of 3^rd day, Siiki is invoked in a ritual called Siiro Cheniin or Tapiir Liniin, where tapiir[cane] leaves are put at Nago.

[Priest invoking Siiki]

[Nago]

[Nago with Tapeiir leaves]

[Old man watching Siiro Cheniin]

Siiro Cheniin is followed by a ritual called pigyang huniin, where pigs are sacrificed. Prior to sacrifice, the pigs are brought to yugyang for purification by nyibu (priest) after which it is brought to respective homes for sacrificing. This particular ritual enticed me for this is the ritual where you get chance to get a glimpse of the new brides Nyahii (daughter-in-laws) in a clan, for the brides Nyahii’s attired in beautiful traditional dress and ornaments come to yugyang to offer their offerings.

[Bride's Nyahii with their offerings]

Just after this ritual, the next two days are reserved for Buniing Ajing (A friendship relationship passed down from generation to generation), where you invite them and exchange gifts. Thereafter, Danyi tunii ritual-erection of Danyi (Sun) altar at yugyang and lapang (community platform) is performed followed by ude tiniing –purification of house by offering to the deities of the house. When all the houses has been purified, Khelo (nii) ritual is performed which basically signifies bidding adieu to the spirits-the Siiki, Kirii, Kilo, the ancestors etc., This ritual is marked by putting takho around the dwelling place, lapang, babo, yugyang, etc.

[Sho-the lower jaw of pig being lined at Yugyang Ato's house during Khelo (nii) ritual]

[Takho around Nago and Pamung Agyang]

Early the next morning, people go for offering to bamboo groves, clan owned forest, paddy fields etc., and for catching ngilyang ngiyi, after taking of which you can break the restriction on eating of fish during the celebration.

[Ngilyang Ngiiyi]

[The Bamboo Grove]

[The offering]

And finally, the month long celebration came to an end with Empii Koniin, where roasted rice is taken to break all the restrictions on food habits that had been imposed during the Myoko.

And change-it was all there to see written all over the trees, quite literally. It was nice to see that the Kardo Committee looking after the place is quite environment conscious and they students of Tajang, Duta, Hija, TDP and Gandhi Schools under the banner of Future Club had put placards all along the way to not to pollute the environment. Kudos to them for their environment conciousness. I only wondered how much the devotees paying visit to the Lingam pays heed to their request.

[Environment Message]

[The Devotees]

[Trishul]

Just near the entrance to the puja sthall, my attention was caught by this sadhu. When I approached him, he very enthusiastically obliged to be photographed.

While photographing him one thought was doing round my mind, what purpose he might have shown for his visit while applying for ILP (Inner Line Permit). Was it a tourist permit or a work permit?

[Devotees offering their prayers]

The turn out of the devotees being large it took around 30 minutes for my colleagues to get their turn to offer their prayers. One of my colleague, after observing so many locals making part of the devotees who came to offer prayer, remarked, “Now, one cannot deny that Hinduism has made inroad into the Apatani society and it wouldn’t be long when majority will be Hindu.” I couldn’t agree more than him. When Donyi-Poloism is being equated with Hinduism or as a branch of Hindu, is there anyone left who is not a Hindu?.

Having offered their prayers we climbed downhill. Finally, after near about 2 and a ½ hours since we started the trek we came down to foothill, all satisfied.

I’m leaving you with this photograph of view of Hapoli Township shot from the place just before you make ascent to Kardo.

[View of Hao-Polyang Township]

[The Countryside]

And this past weekend was such an occasion when I had to visit the countryside; for ‘Lapang’ had to be constructed and ‘Babo’ erected in connection with the ‘Myoko’ ceremony which begins this 20^th. Apart from time for construction of Lapang and erection of Babo by the Myoko celebrating village(s) (Myoko festival is celebrated in turn by the villages), it is also the time when nurseries are prepared for rice saplings to sprout.

[The Nursery]

The construction of Lapang begins as early as from Murung Pullo i.e., the month of January, if there is any member of the clan performing Murung ritual and upto the first week of Myoko Pullo i.e., the month of March. [Here in this post, I wouldn’t be going deep into the myth associated with the Lapang and Babo or it’s significance. I’m reserving it for some other post .]

[Lapang under construction]

After the construction of Lapang, it was turn for Babo to be erected. For the details of parts of Babo see this article ‘Babo in Tanii (Apatani) Culture‘.

[Babo being pulled up]

[Pull Harder]

[I'm up!]

Now that Babo is up, who would volunteer to climb up the Babo to release the ropes used for pulling it up? Well, this gentleman volunteered and climbed all up to the ‘Tapiir’ of Babo and released the ropes.

[Am I Spidey?]

For more pics on the event, I’m embedding a slide show below. Enjoy!

Miao - The 24th Shapawng Yawng Manau Poi (festival) of the Singpho community was celebrated at Miao on February 14th with full gaiety and religious fervor. The festival was marked by colorful traditional dances, folk songs, and display of Gongs. The Minister for RWD, Sri chowna Mein graced the occasion as the chief guest which was also attended by Sri C.C. Singpho minister for health and family welfare, Sri Kamlung Mossang MLA and other dignitaries including government officers and officials.

Sri Chowna Mein has called upon the visitors from outside to experience the varied and rich culture, customs and exotic flora and fauna of vast Aruanchal Pradesh from East to West. He emphatically said it is time to develop and prepare ourselves for a better tomorrow. He also advocated for documentation of the traditions and culture of the community and said that Arunachal Pradesh being a state inhabited by numerous tribes and sub tribes is like a flower garden, full of different fragrances. “Arunachalee are more patriotic than any other Indians and AP will always remain an integral part of India” said Chowna Mein on the recent Chinese statement.

Chowna Mein said that the Historical Stilwell in Nampong has great momentous in the future prosperity of the District. He includes that the opening of Border Trade will enlarge the economy of the region and may boom the below par timber industries of the District.

Sri Mein lauded the Singphos for their rich cultural heritage and exhorted the youth to take keen interest for preserving it. He further appealed the elite and elder group of the community for involvement of the younger generation so as to render them platform to realize about the importance of the festival

On this auspicious occasion C.C.Singpho who is also the Chief Patron of the festival and the Chief Advisor of SDSI extended his gratefulness to all the dignitaries, guest and local participants for their contribution in this festival and making it a success “Our youth are misguided and going in to the wrong direction with intake of Opium” said Sri C. C. Singpho. He has shown a serious concern over consumption of drugs and narcotics by the Singphos’ new generation and advised them to refrain from it by involving themselves in more creative works. Shapawng Yawng festival could be organized as an international festival because Singpho community though a little but has its wings span spread in abroad in countries like Myanmar and Thailand, he added. He praised the activities of the Singpho development society and said that it could be the main platform for serving the Singpho community.

Photographs of the event through Arif’s lens:

Thanks Arif.

Find more of Arif’s photo here.

Entry to Eastern Gate

Various faces of Eastern Gate (Above)

Rajbhavan at the backdrop

View from Itafaort (Probably they used this gate to watch the movement of invaders from the plains)

Guess, it’s time the Directorate of Research, Archaeology Section, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, which is the caretaker of this historical remain, comes into action and starts preservation work on the ruins, lest these ruins just becomes a history.